Fairy Lore From Magical France

The Portefeuille de Margot is where the fairies are said to have buried a barrel of gold. Photo©RobWildwood

French fairy lore is a captivating tapestry woven with magic, nature, ancient mysteries and stories of beautiful beings known as fées, the origin of the English word ‘fairy’. The characteristics and names given to these entities vary across France, with some being benign, others mischievous and some downright malign. The liminal places with which they are associated — caves, springs, forest glades, dolmens and other megalithic sites –— warrant further exploration.

In the north of the country, in Brittany, lush forests and megalithic sites serve as both dwellings for and gateways to the fairy realm; as night falls, human-like fairies are said to emerge and dance among ancient stones, sometimes enchanting people who stumble upon them, compelling them to join their revelry.

The Gouffre de Huelgoat is a narrow chasm where the river plunges down in a waterfall; local folklore associates this place with the legend of Princess Dahut, who became a Marie-Morgane (mermaid).

Photo©RobWildwood

Fairies Of The Rocks

One particularly otherworldly place is the Forêt d’Huelgoat in Finistère, where colossal boulders, some the size of houses, form caves and passageways. Local tradition attributes these rock formations to giants but the forest is also said to be haunted by fairies who reside beneath the rocks.

The Argent river runs through the forest, creating pools, waterfalls and cataracts, which add to the mystical atmosphere. The Gouffre de Huelgoat is a narrow chasm where the river plunges down in a waterfall; local folklore associates this place with the legend of Princess Dahut, who became a Marie-Morgane (mermaid).

Near here, the Mare aux Fées, a tranquil pond surrounded by trees and mossy boulders, is where locals say fairies comb their long golden hair on moonlit nights.

The Mare aux Fées, a tranquil pond surrounded by trees and mossy boulders, is where locals say fairies comb their long golden hair on moonlit nights.

Photo©RobWildwood

Also in Brittany, Mont Croquelien is said to be home to the mischievous fairies known as Margot la Fée. The rocks here resemble objects, such as a cradle and cattle trough, and are associated with the Margot fairies. The Portefeuille de Margot is where the fairies are said to have buried a barrel of gold, and the Baignoire (Bath) de Margot is a hollow that fills with rainwater. The summit of the hill has granite slabs that are said to form Margot’s dancefloor, and there’s also a rock used by them as a slide.

The Fairy Mélusine

French fairy lore extends well beyond the country’s northern landscapes, however. In the western lowlands, between Nantes and La Rochelle, the fairy Mélusine is a significant figure in local folklore. She is known for marrying the mortal Raymondin of Poitiers, and their descendants established the prominent Lusignan royal dynasty. Vouvant is home to the Tour Mélusine; this watchtower is all that remains of the castle Mélusine is said to have built in a single night. There is also a museum dedicated to her legend.

The fairy Mélusine is a significant figure in local folklore, whose descendants through marriage with the mortal Raymondin of Poitiers, established the prominent Lusignan royal dynasty. This watchtower is all that remains of the castle Mélusine is said to have built in a single night.

Photo©RobWildwood

The town is located between Mélusine’s other castles at Pouzauges and Mervent. Nearby Lusignan is another town inseparable from Mélusine. Here, she is said to have taken on human form and built many places with her magic. Today, the town embraces her as a key part of its heritage with her image adorning shops, restaurants, and buildings. The Église Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Junien is said to have been founded and built by her, and carvings of Mélusine and other creatures adorn the north portal.

Burial Chamber Fairies

Many dolmens and passage graves are also thought to be gateways to the fairy realm. One such site is the nearby Dolmen de la Salle aux Fées, an ancient burial chamber now tangled with bushes and trees, while the Maison des Fées, in Tressé, is said to have been built as a dwelling for fairies. A local farmer there was rewarded by the fairies with a piece of bread that would never get smaller no matter how much he ate, but when he revealed the fairies’ secret the bread went stale.

The Lit de la Gione at Bagnoles-de-l’Orne, another substantial dolmen further north, is said to be the dwelling of La Gione, a wicked hag-like fairy who bewitched a local lord and caused him to die of exhaustion after forcing him to dance all night.

The Pierre de la Fée is a large dolmen believed to be the home of a helpful fairy named Esterelle, who would help women with conception and birth in exchange for a small offering.

Photo©RobWildwood

Fairies Of The Grottos

Fortunately, other French fairies are more benign. Caves associated with fairies, include the Grottes de Saulges, where the fairy queen Margot was said to have hidden treasure. An ancient cult revered Margot, and the people of the valley would sacrifice black hens to her to gain good fortune. The caves themselves are prehistoric habitations with wall paintings and engravings, and one of the chambers is known as the Palais de Margot.

Further south, in Provence, the Pierre de la Fée is a large dolmen believed to be the home of a helpful fairy named Esterelle, who would help women with conception and birth in exchange for a small offering.

France’s rich landscape, with its mix of nature, ancient sites, and captivating stories, makes it an ideal place to experience the magic and mystery of fairies. The land seems steeped in their presence, from ancient stones to forests, rivers, and caves. Each site has its own unique stories and traditions, reflecting the diversity and depth of fairy lore that France has to offer. Whether one is drawn to the mischievous fairies of Brittany, the legendary Mélusine in the west, or the helpful fairies of Provence, each one offers the possibility of connecting with the landscape in an enchanting way.

Magical France: 500 Sacred & Mystical Sites by Rob Wildwood is published on 1 March

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